Ernest Wright: "Sui Generis" in the craft of fine scissor-making
In the beating heart of Sheffield, within one of the most charming workshops imaginable, you will find the home of Ernest Wright. Splintering off from the time-honoured attractiveness of quality scissor-making in the rich industrial heritage of this great city, Ernest Wright actively invests in passing the torch in scissor-making to the new generation.
Bespoke details
The current steward, Paul Jacobs, loves his endeavour, explaining with the same wording how each pair of scissors has been custom-made for the craft of its particular user. "It's not just about making scissors; it's about crafting a tool that fits the craftsman's needs perfectly," he says. From adjusting the tension in the pivot to perfecting the blade angle, intention goes into every detail. Their bespoke services, for example, the 'knife edge' for leather workers, show insight into the details of their clients' needs. They don’t cut corners.
Materialising perfection
Quality is underlined by material selection; this is in consideration of the quality they bring forth in making decisions on the materials they use. The carbon steel used in making small fabric scissors assures sharpness and strength, while the tailor/cutter shears are made with C60 steel ensuring the user is confident in getting a seamless perfect cut, with each stroke, even on the toughest of fabrics like Kevlar or more appropriately heavy duty tweeds, with ease. Stainless steel variants range across various client needs and can make a huge difference in the end result. They use two kinds of carbon steel, The C means Carbon followed by the quantity, either 0.50% or 0.60%.
Heritage rebirth
Their growth as a business moves hand in hand with the industrial fluctuation of Sheffield. Agglutinate: It hit the peak of its popularity in the 1960s, plunged into its decline, and has since revived itself through a loyal client base where ‘’only the best will do’’ and a viral video on YouTube in 2012. Supported by a Kickstarter campaign in 2016. Not without its challenges. In 2018 the company lost its fifth-generation leader. Even with the new pressures presented by Brexit and the pandemic; Ernest Wright continued to thrive, through hard work, passion for craftsmanship and doing things properly. Now being recognised by no less than Royalty and the Heritage Craft Association for the impact they make on tradition.
Not owned, but inherited.
Buying the building of their workshop was a key moment. "Owning our space allowed us to fully invest in our craft," Jacobs pointed out. That level of stability was key to retaining high-quality work.
Making scissors & shears is not only manufacturing but a craft; it’s an effort of humankind towards nurturing the legacy of excellence and passion. It is the epitome of the industrial art of Sheffield and inspiration for the forthcoming generation of craftspeople.
Well-Heeled and Humbled: George Glasgow Jr. on George Cleverley's 2020 Success.
Chris Cotonou.
“Humbled. That’s the only way to put it,” admits George Cleverley’s CEO (and one-half father-son team) George Glasgow Jr., following the shoemaker’s success over the past year. The pandemic has hit bespoke makers in London pretty hard, but with perseverance (“and some luck”) George and his father were the only Mayfair craftsmen allowed to visit the United States since March: to see clients, give fittings, and pursue other projects—most notably, Hollywood.
The invisible seawall wedged in the Atlantic (which put a stop to trunk shows) has been a concern for Mayfair’s otherwise-roving tailors and shoemakers, many of whom enjoy fruitful relationships with long-time customers, or use it as an opportunity to advertise their wares. But George has some good news: “There’s clearly a heightened demand in the US for well-made English products. I was most surprised to see so many younger, first-time customers.” This means that once we get the green light, hopefully a hungry customer-base deprived of measuring tape and English chatter awaits out West. But that’s not a-given. George Cleverley’s father-son team have a reputation for being customer-facing, opting to build relationships with the biggest Hollywood stars and one-time shoppers. Why is this so important? “Dad’s been doing these trips for fifty years, and counting. The thing is, I actually like to get to know the customer… The more we learn from our customer, the more their creative ideas can inspire some of what we add to our collection.”
“and if you ordered a George Cleverley shoe this year, you’ll be happily surprised to learn it was probably, and uniquely, made in the craftsman’s very own living room.”
Another reason George Cleverley emerged triumphant is because the shoes really are handmade. Factory closures mean machine-made products (even in Britain) have come to a halt. That’s not a problem if every step of the process requires only a pair of experienced hands and tools; and if you ordered a George Cleverley shoe this year, you’ll be happily surprised to learn it was probably, and uniquely, made in the craftsman’s very own living room. “Our team had no problem,” I’m told. “It’s kind of a testament to ‘handmade’ when the technical constraints of so many other brands can’t upend a traditional craftsman at work.” And so, George Cleverley’s bespoke line was able to meet the customer’s demand. Factory work, in this rare case, were cause for complication — not simplicity. “Handmade is pandemic-proof,” he insists.
Perhaps striking is that many of these orders were not from the UK but from during George’s aforementioned American tour. The visit spanned one month and many cities—a gruelling trip by any measure—but one that he clearly hasn’t taken for granted. There’s a tone of gratitude in his voice as he relays how pleased he was to see customers, even as I remark on how tiring the whole affair must have been. “But you have to do it,” he insists. George clearly gets a kick from doing business, at any cost. It’s his family’s brand after all. “I worked very hard to get into the U.S. this time. Where we could’ve looked at all the bureaucracy and said, ‘not worth it’, we pushed and pushed until we got the green light.”
“What does Superman, Batman, The Transporter, and The Rock have in common? He laughs, “they’re all wearing our shoes”. ”
What does Superman, Batman, The Transporter, and The Rock have in common? He laughs, “they’re all wearing our shoes”. Cleverley has signed on to produce a special boot for the next instalment of the Jurassic Park franchise. The rugged, work-boot might not be something we typically associate with such a storied English shoemaker, but for George and co. that’s part of the fun. “Sometimes happy accidents happen and we pursue that shape for another collection. It’s happened before.” Aside from Jurassic Park, his team are producing the shoes for the third instalment in the Kingsman franchise, ‘The King’s Man’, which will feature on their long-standing range for Mr Porter x Kingsman. They’re actually the only brand to design for this line since day-dot, he notes over the phone, and “the largest British shoe presence on Mr Porter” with a new series of extremely soft deerskin shoes, including loafers in five different colours on their merry way. “You can only buy them on Mr Porter, by the way. Nowhere else.”
Why all the exclusivity? Surely, it’s best to have your products available everywhere, no? But that might not be the case. “There are George Cleverley shoes you can only get in certain stores, or even countries. This means that they become collectible, as our IWC x The Rake straps, or our collaboration with Japanese designer Nigo require the customer to seek the product out... By then, they have something no-one else does.” There are, in fact, GC shoes you can find in Harrod’s that the gentlemen at the Cleverley flagship store will be unable to offer you. “So, the customer has a story, a time and a place attached to their shoe…” It’s a strategy that makes plenty of sense, as today’s luxury brands do everything in their power to flood the market with so-called ‘exclusive’ products. They would rather say, “Sorry, we don’t have it”. And even with their Hollywood projects, George Cleverley is picky. “I can say that we get approached every two weeks for a film. But we’ve learned how to say no, unless it offers us a certain type of challenge.”
If George Cleverley’s success this year is anything to go by, sticking to your guns, your beliefs — confronting challenges with solutions — and saying ‘no’ from time-to-time works. “I suppose it goes back to my Dad in the end,” George Jr. adds finally, “he always taught me to worry about what you’re doing, not what everyone else is.” It’s a potent lesson. And one that many other luxury craftsmen may well want to heed.
A kaleidoscopic spritz of old Hollywood.
Fusing the sophistication and traditionalism of Savile Row with beatnik ideas, Yuri & Yuri have masterfully encapsulated this original and yet idiosyncratic aesthetic.
Yuri & Yuri continue to cast aside the Savile Row curtain with a collection of recherché designs that consummately federates Hollywood’s golden-age with bohemian chic. It’s an extraordinarily creative aesthetic that also stylishly references ‘60s Ivy League sportswear. They’re a brand that nearly overwhelms you with suspense whilst you’re vehemently waiting in the wings to lay eyes on their latest designs to come on stage. This collection is certainly no different with a pair of impeccably tailored trousers and shorts, striking knitwear and unique outerwear.
Known for their visually surreal dressing gowns, they have transferred this phsycadelic touch into their knitwear. Their khaki and mocha one-piece polo shirt is reminiscent of ‘60s poster designs by Michael English that were replete with cheerful dissonance of psychedelia. English was the man who produced illustrations for the great musicians of the time including Jimi Hendrix. He also painted the famous mural for Michael Rainey’s eponymous fashion boutique in Cale Street in 1960s. Hung on You was a boutique at the heart of the peacock revolution and embraced by the Beatles, Stones and The Who. An old customer once recalled: “Groovers didn’t mind paying triple for a floral chiffon shirt, because Mick Jagger had probably bought one the day before.” There is no doubt that Yuri & Yuri’s polo shirt would’ve been immensely popular in this boutique, but the difference is that instead of reworking vintage fabrics their polo is crafted entirely by hand using Japanese patented ‘serie’ fibre in a watermark camel brown pattern. It emphasizes their infinite devotion to craftsmanship which also visible in the collar. It is cut and made in one piece with reinforced stitching so that it sits comfortably below the jacket, or if you’re dancing and decide a little more flair is necessary to the outfit, it overlaps beautifully on the jacket’s lapels.
The Beat movement blended disparate elements of surrealism, jazz, and post-modernism into its own unique modes of expression. In reality it’s a spiritual pathway with an open ending, which is similar to the neck3 jersey or trim jumper in the world of menswear; of course, there is always adapted versions of styles, but it seems this garment, so rarely seen in an artisanal quality, has no definitive name to it. Inspired by the Beatnik Generation, their neck jersey is a welcome enigma in menswear circles. Crafted entirely by hand in a soft Merino wool and sourced from Italy it features a contrasting ribbed edging in olive. The blend of olive with this light metallic blue shade creates this beautiful pattern that is also cleverly shaped for this experimental effect. It fits close to the body and is a cool alternative to a t-shirt or jumper when tucked, neatly into some high-waisted trousers of the wide-leg variety.
In a beautiful mocha brown hue Yuri & Yuri’s Clifford trouser comprise all the suitable components to pair with the jersey. With an expertly tailored Hollywood-styled straight-leg it creates this classical volume to the lower half. When contrasted with the jersey’s tighter fit it beautifully enables one’s fine physical attributes on the upper half to be accentuated in true silver screen style. The trousers are cut using 100% Merino worsted wool and feature a double fastening waist with concealed buckle and tab. Other details include double forward-facing pleats which add an extra inch of material to each leg and create more room and comfort.
In a market that is badly saturated with ill-fitting shorts, Yuri & Yuri’s traditional Clifford shorts, bare nearly identical hallmarks to its namesake trouser. They fit higher up the waist than your usual pair, which always creates this neat equilibrium around the midriff if wearing a well-crafted shirt, polo-shirt or neck jersey. With a hint of high-quality Egyptian silk ingrained in the material, you might just feel part of Howard Carter’s and 5th Earl of Carnarvon's smart set in Luxor during the excavation of Tutankhamun’s tomb which was eventually discovered in 1922.
In keeping with their vintage colour theme is their Beau Irish linen shirt. Handcrafted from ultra-sustainable Irish Linen, it features a ‘50s Hollywood cutaway collar. The summer season so often administers the informal elegance side to dressing and in this lightweight shirt you have the option to pair it with almost anything within reason for that relaxed summer appearance.
Over a year ago now it was thrilling to discover the brand’s Rallison shirt which was crafted using the patented ‘serie’ fibre which gave a whole new texture to polo-shirts. It worked tremendously and they have now used this fibre in crafting their Quigley jersey. Utterly unique this cricket jumper is woven in a robust waffle weave texture from the fibre. It features a moderate sized V neck with contrasting staple. Hot afternoons can turn into cool evenings in the second half of the summer in Europe and this jersey is certainly a stylish option to stay warm in the evenings. Another option that is extremely versatile for a fluctuation in temperatures is their grey Sherwood shawl collar jersey, which also uses the same patented fibre to form a cool high twist pattern.
Article credit: Hugo Curran for The Rake Magazine.
Reopening the Row – but the service will be tailored for safety.
With stores expected to begin reopening next week, the country’s top tailors have been preparing for life on what be a very different Savile Row, writes Richard Burton and William Field.
Given the almost unique challenges they face in a world governed by social distancing, many have had to rethink how they will do business. Some have already been adapting to post-Lockdown life by turning to virtual consultations and considering extended opening hours – including Sundays – to allow a safer flow of customers. Home visiting services may become another reality.
Virtual fittings have been taking place successfully at Guise & Huntsman for the past few weeks, particularly for overseas customers, according to Taj Phull, brand head of retail, who points out that “the keen eye of our cutters will be more valued than ever”.
Kilgour and Lee Marsh have managed to diversify their business with the help of Zoom calls. Smaller shops such as Norton and Sons are planning to maintain their strict “one customer at a time” rule with staff in PPE and many will be offering fittings by appointment to manage footfall, offering hand-washing stations and providing staff and clients with masks. Huntsman is even advertising masks online in their exclusive house tweeds.
“While conducting fittings online can be tricky, I am able to fulfill repeat orders, make garments – and educate students”
Lee Marsh (pictured above) admits it’s been a challenge. “You need to feel the cloth during the fitting for it to be properly bespoke,” he says. “It’s not easy seeing colour on a phone or tablet.”
But he adds: “While conducting fittings online can be tricky, I am able to fulfil repeat orders, make garments – and educate students. That’s because we both work from the same jacket and cut from the same pattern. That way they can follow exactly what I’m sewing in the same places.”
Tools to the trade now stretch beyond shears, thimble and thread. Camera extensions for laptops or phones are essential for Marsh, enabling him to guide them through each stitch.
There’s another advantage. Not only can the students easily recall this information as all sessions are recorded, but such digital tutoring also trims-down the unnecessary travel time – and cost, something some students have found problematic in the past.
“I can also mitigate any unnecessary teaching time,” he said. “For example, comparatively traditional apprenticeships have the student doing pad stitching [a labour-intensive hand-stitching technique] for over five months before they move you on to the next stage.
“Whilst this is important for several reasons, technically, the student doesn’t need to be there if I’m supervising from the other side of the screen.”
Alex Lamb of Kilgour, which had been forced to close its flagship store shortly before the pandemic, said: “Online consultations are a great way to conduct multiple meetings, especially with existing customers based overseas. Customers have been happy to receive cloth samples by post following the online consultation.
“We’ve had great support from British mills who have been operating skeleton services so that they can continue posting out samples to customers on our behalf.”
“Whilst conducting fittings in the middle of the shop isn’t ideal, we will encourage it if the customer feels comfortable in doing so”
As for those first-fittings, Lamb adds: “We’ve bought a lot of PPE equipment, which is due to be delivered shortly, to enable us to get back in front of customers safely.
They have even crafted their own tailored overalls that will need to be changed between customer fittings, in addition to protective visors and masks.
“It’s been reassuring that customers have been purchasing vouchers online. They can put digital deposits down for bespoke suits which gets cash into the business – a bit like a bond. This helps the workshop keep moving too.”
William Skinner of Dege & Skinner, one of the last remaining family-owned independent shops on the Row, said: “From the word go we relocated coat makers to home and provided sewing machines and steam irons.
“Cutting is more challenging, as the table needs to be longer and taller. Our cutter has been coming into the Row occasionally to keep things moving by mitigating as much risk as possible, but trying to maintain a modicum of normality.”
This essential part of the process is then distributed between the coat makers working from home.
“Looking forward, we will be opening – as such, by pre-booked appointments only meeting one customer at a time. We will be actively adhering to all government guidelines, including our staff wearing PPE during fittings.”
Skinner adds that they will also be operating a skeleton service of team members in support of maintaining a safe distance.
“Whilst conducting fittings in the middle of the shop isn’t ideal, we will encourage it if the customer feels comfortable in doing so. As a family-owned business, we pride ourself on looking after our staff and customers. These are challenging times, but we will come out of it.” Others have been using the Lockdown as a time for reflection. Richard Anderson has been looking at new Autumn designs and Henry Poole is working on releasing an “entirely new concept” that will diversify its collection. Simon Cundey tells visitors to his website: “I will be back in touch very shortly with exciting details and news of superb offers on our new range of lightweight summer fabrics and our online swatch service.”
Cad & The Dandy are operating a strict diary system to control the flow and plan to take advantage of their dual entrances and have even repositioned their cutters’ and sales staff’s desks to ensure distancing. They will be sharing parking locations ahead of bookings as they expect many customers will be travelling by car.
Both tailors have been aiding the Covid-19 effort by having their cutters produce PPE equipment following requests from hospices, ICU nurses and GP’s general practitioners.
Others have been using the Lockdown as a time for reflection. Richard Anderson has been looking at new Autumn designs and Henry Poole is working on releasing an “entirely new concept” that will diversify its collection. Simon Cundey tells visitors to his website: “I will be back in touch very shortly with exciting details and news of superb offers on our new range of lightweight summer fabrics and our online swatch service.”
Shaun Brennan, a local tailor, adds the final word, echoing a sentiment shared by so many of his colleagues: “If there’s one fortunate thing to come out of this global pandemic, it’s the shift in spending habits”, he adds. “There’s a renewed focus on long-standing value, local buying, and sustainability”
Why People are Spending More on Luxury during the Crisis.
The U.S reported a downturn of over 40% in fast fashion during March and an encouraging 2% upturn in Luxury spend.
Have you been staying at home as much as possible? We can’t ignore the financial strain this pandemic has also burdened us with. Let's look deeper into why people still spend on luxury during the crisis.
The amount of people affected by this pandemic is shockingly high, in more ways than one. There's also the financial strain. You’d think consumerism would have shifted, but this isn't necessarily the case for all. Yes, we have panic buyers stockpiling loo roll and hand gel, but there’s also been an up curve in luxury sales too. A paradox approach to ‘keep calm and don't carry on’
“People are still ordering made to measure suits and placing bespoke orders during the lockdown as our tailors work from home”
Sales have inevitably dipped for most on the whole, unavoidably due to lockdown with supply chain restrictions etc. We can't undervalue the apparent retail therapy lots have been indulging in. Speaking to Alex Lamb (Brand Director at Kilgour Savile Row) “We Have noticed people are still placing made to measure and bespoke orders throughout the lockdown period. We have relocated our tailors enabling them to work from home’’. A much needed bit of reassurance for Savile Row. “Customers seem reflective and are using their time wisely, by treating themselves. We have felt very supported from our customer base, long-standing trust and loyalty that has been built up over the years is evident” says Lamb.
It seems this form of retail therapy, buying quality items that make people feel good during a global crisis is a coping mechanism. The U.S reported a downturn of over 40% in fast fashion during March and an encouraging 2% upturn in luxury spend.
Do I agree with this ‘shoptomistic’ approach to spending during a crisis? If you can, buying quality that will last a long time is wise and a sustainable effort. These are the people who are going to spur on the consumer-led economy and help us bounce back.
Shutterstock.
A conversation with Daks… From a safe distance.
Working From Home With… Journalist and Brand Co-Founder Will Field from Bespoke Tailoring Blog, Savile Row Journal; friend of DAKS. Will shares the secret to his style and what inspires him, along side how he’s staying focussed and sartorial while at home.
What do you wear when working from home?
I always try to make somewhat of an effort when it comes to working from home. As long as the clothes are different from the ones I woke up in, that’s a good start.
Usually it will be loungey knitwear; button ups like cardigans can help shift the mood to a more business disposition.
The one item of clothing you think is worth investing in each season?
Anything that can be worn for all, or if not most of the year.
What do you love about what you do?
I love to create and add value with a story.
Whats your morning routine and how has it changed since working from home?
My morning routine always involves going for a run. Meditating and breakfast. I’ve forced myself into this routine more strictly since working from home in an attempt to remain sane and productive during the isolation period.
Top Tips to keep focussed while working from home...
1. I’ve found routine is the method that gets me going and keeps me going. Having a designated work area (anywhere except bed). I aim to focus on the more labour intensive tasks earlier, so that everything that proceeds thereafter feels more fluid. Who wouldn’t like to start the day on a win?
2. FaceTime and Zoom help me feel more connected. If I spend to much time on my own it’s quite easy to get locked into my own head. The best ideas and more successful work I have done has come through collaboration and sharing, and these apps help that.
3. Enjoy your food! Enjoy being in your kitchen for every meal. Mix up your routine meals and play with new options and what you have in your cupboard. It will make going back to ‘work’ easier as you’ve stepped away for a minute.
4. Having a weekly Goal plan is also useful For time management. Because I’m at home, no one can witness the mad man taking to his virtual PA (Siri) asking the poor lady to remind me of stuff to do.
5. I’ve always tried to work as if it’s unpaid. I’m sure many people may disagree with me on this who have worked with me in the past, but this is the aim. By switching focus to a more helpful and cheery state I find I get a lot more done and enjoy the process. Again this makes collaboration much easier too.
How do you unwind/top tips to de-stress?
Meditation in the morning tends to set me on a desirable trajectory for the day. Sharing ideas and speaking with friends helps me de-stress.
First place you’ll eat or visit post working from home?
Local independent coffee shop. Really hope they’re still there.
Top 10 picks from DAKS for WFH
Smart Casual Done Properly. SRJ x The Rake
With companies like Goldman Sachs giving the formal suit the sack, the media increasingly focuses on the “smart casual movement” with an almost liberating tone. With the emergence of this new style trend, I thought it would be valuable for me to make some suggestions based on my own experience.
There’s a myth that knitwear is only for winter but there are many options for summer too. The use of high-twist yarns, open weaves, linen and silk blends help make knitwear highly relevant to wear year-round with smart-casual tailoring. The broken suit is also a good option, mixing and matching blazers, trousers, etc. Speaking of which, trousers can also be a great staple piece and in the correct cut and style, really bring an outfit together without much effort. It’s a kind of reverse notion to wearing a slightly rowdy sports coat. Think neutral tones like browns and creams, blues and greys, with a focus on details. Having a Ghurka waistband or double pleats finished with hand “Travetta” bar-tacks can both be achievable good options.
Smart casual is a golden opportunity to dress both elegantly and intelligently in a non-ostentatious way, an evolved form of classic understated style in the work place or wherever you like.
This is not a “what to wear” guide, as I trust you know how to dress yourself already, but maybe you’ll find something valuable here that can keep you always looking your best.I certainly don’t think it’s time to abandon the suit. Actually, quite the contrary. Whilst most of the customers on Savile Row are not from Generation Z, we cannot ignore constantly evolving consumer habits. People are shopping with contradicting values more than ever. I recently read an interesting report in which noted that a vast number of people are shopping for instant gratification and for sustainable, ethically produced products. With that said, I don’t think Savile Row should be abandoned either. Smart casual does not mean dressing like a Silicon Valley tech guru, flouncing about the office wearing mismatched gym clothes paired with sandals and socks. Smart casual bespoke is the perfect opportunity to nail all of the above.
Getting clothes handcrafted from proper tailors will last almost a lifetime and will always be relevant. Shopping sustainably and intelligently will not only help save the planet—it will also save you money in the long run. (Some time in the not-too-distant future, I’ll do a post comparing bespoke garments to most ready-to-wear clothes point by point.) To add a more casual vibe to your outfit, you can either ditch the tie or the shirt altogether and opt for some half-decent knitwear. I personally prefer the latter, as it not only creates a nice contrast without compromise, but also saves a bit of hassle on the ironing. Knitwear can come in many forms and sizes. Made-to-measure options are also available if you want to go one step further.
There’s a myth that knitwear is only for winter but there are many options for summer too. The use of high-twist yarns, open weaves, linen and silk blends help make knitwear highly relevant to wear year-round with smart-casual tailoring. The broken suit is also a good option, mixing and matching blazers, trousers, etc. Speaking of which, trousers can also be a great staple piece and in the correct cut and style, really bring an outfit together without much effort. It’s a kind of reverse notion to wearing a slightly rowdy sports coat. Think neutral tones like browns and creams, blues and greys, with a focus on details. Having a Ghurka waistband or double pleats finished with hand “Travetta” bar-tacks can both be achievable good options.
Smart casual is a golden opportunity to dress both elegantly and intelligently in a non-ostentatious way, an evolved form of classic understated style in the work place or wherever you like.
Sliding into Autumn. SRJ x The Rake
Easing back into work after an indulgent break. Summer is quickly becoming a fleeting throwback and six months of layering is what lies ahead. It might not be time just yet to send the summer wardrobe on a 6 month hiatus to the depths of your wardrobe. We’ve put together a little guide to help you identify the key pieces for a transitional wardrobe. “Smasual” dressing is an ideal opportunity to dress both practically and stylishly by mixing layers from all seasons without looking like a four-season style malfunction
A navy single-breasted blazer is one of the most versatile and transitional pieces a man can own. certainly a robust contender for smart casual to go a little further than occasional wear. The Edward Sexton navy blazer carries all the glorious hallmarks of the Sexton house style With strong shoulders, swooping lapels, ventless back, one button with patch pockets this blazer will add balance to an otherwise formal aesthetic whilst allowing a highly favourable silhouette to most body types. Marry it up with a polo or shirt, charcoal strides or jeans for highly relevant and universal year round wear.
The one piece collar Polo, handcrafted in ”Serie” (Japanese patented man-made fibre) can be worn easily under a jacket with a well-behaved collar which will stay put all day. The transitional polo can be elevated further by layering with a neckerchief or cardy. This highly rare fibre breathes probably far better than your cotton shirts (minus the sweat marks) lending to the unique weaving process, championing year round wear. This polo has a silk like lustre with un compromised durability, featuring smokey mother of pearl buttons and a one-piece collar. From collar to the hem, everything is totally finished by hand. Yuri & Yuri now own this patented yarn and are the sole manufacturer.
“A man is either in his bed or in his shoes.” A pragmatic quote which counsels one to render a practical decision. This begs probably a thousand words to follow but for the purpose of this guide I am emphasising the significance of the Penny Loafer by George Cleverley. Firstly, brown suede will age like a fine wine and by default is the perfect transitional shoe. So long as treated with some prudent TLC (use shoe trees and give an occasional brush) these ones and two’s will keep you going twice as long, especially when it comes down to both value for money and versatility. Crafted from a soft brown suede and slight heal these loafers can either soften a slightly more formal ensemble or be worn casually, adding sensibility to mixed autumnal layers, elevating both height and your style stance.
Photographer: Jamie Furguson
https://therake.com/stories/sliding-autumn-like-transitional/
Here’s What Makes Yuri & Yuri, the New Kids on Savile Row, a Name to Watch —Robb Report
Less than a year after setting up shop, this young brand has already hit on a style and swagger that other labels take years to find.
BY PAUL CROUGHTON ON AUGUST 13, 2019
The new menswear label Yuri & Yuri has been in business for less than a year, but the ideas and attitude that underpin it have been around for over seven decades.
The brand takes its unusual moniker from its designer Yuri Choi, who studied tailoring in South Korea before moving to London to train at the Savile Row Academy. After graduating she launched her business with Will Field, a cloth merchant who she met buying fabric on the Row: Field now oversees much of the fabrication for the brand. Between them, they wanted to produce a range that takes the best features of high-end tailoring and translates them into a luxury ready-to-wear label.
Yuri Choi and Will Field, co-founders of Yuri & Yuri. Field is wearing one of the brand’s knit polo shirts. Rikesh Chauhan
What’s refreshing about Yuri & Yuri is that the collection has a definite point of view. Which is that there was something about the ’50s and ’60s, and specifically gentlemen’s leisure-ware of that period, that married elegance and elan with ease and comfort. Think “the golfer Arnold Palmer, or the movie The Talented Mr. Ripley,” says Field. “We wanted to create something of value which will not only last but always be relevant, and able to withstand trends. Something to wear as easily to the beach, or on the golf course, but also to dinner or a more formal occasion.”
So that means high-waisted, pleated trousers in linens or wool, and knitted polo shirts and short-sleeved button-ups with strong collars intended to be worn either under or over a jacket collar. In such a tight collection, the quality of the materials is all-important. British mills have been used for the wool, and a Russian mill was chosen for the summer-weight linen, “…because it was the only linen that seemed to hold its shape better and crease much less than others we’d used before”.
One of the label’s unique selling points is its use of a fabric called serie (pronounced se-re-ya), a man-made material originally produced in Japan by Mitsubishi. When that side of Mitsubishi’s business was closed down, Yuri’s family, in the tailoring trade back in South Korea, bought all the remaining yarn. “The main benefits of it are its silky appearance and its ability to feel cool in hot weather,” Field says. “It doesn’t stick to the skin and it’s incredibly hard-wearing.”
A fan of Yuri & Yuri’s aesthetic, I tried a couple of pieces. I can report that the linen trousers are nicely put together, lighter weight than most ‘smart’ linen strides (which tend to be 380g fabrics; these are 232g) and so very wearable. I also tried what the brand calls a Raillson shirt in a brown serie which looks undeniably stylish, with the oversized collar framing your neck just so. The fit is small, so I’d recommend sizing up. It’s a very open weave, which makes it extremely cool (in both senses) and so perfect for muggy summer nights. One note: because the weave of the fabric is open, mine caught and pulled on my watch strap and, on another occasion, my wife’s jewelry. I might try the polo shirts next, in navy or burgundy, because the styling is unlike any other currently on the market, and the weave is denser and so less likely to catch.
As we come into Autumn and winter, the hero piece of outerwear that Yuri & Yuri currently produces is also appealing: The Cadogan is a cross between a field jacket and a safari jacket. It buttons up, but features a belt that ties in front, give it a rather debonair feel. The one-piece collar is particularly well-executed so that it stands up perfectly at the back and rolls nicely at the front. Previously available in a lovely waxed brown English cotton, for Autumn it will also come in merino wool with leather detailing, which will work well in the transitional period before winter bites.
The label also offers bespoke knitwear online, which is an intriguing prospect. But, still a long way short of its first birthday, Yuri & Yuri has already hit on a style and swagger that other labels take years to find. We await the new season collection with interest.
The Rake Introduces Yuri & Yuri.
By BENEDICT BROWNE photography JAMIE FERGUSON
By championing perennial style for the modern man, Yuri & Yuri is the new kid on the Savile Row block and staying true to its values is paramount.
Founded earlier this year by Yuri Choi and Will Field, an alumni of Savile Row Academy and a cloth merchant respectively, Yuri & Yuri is a bespoke and handmade ready-to-wear menswear label. Based on Savile Row, it has a commendable mission statement of further underlining The Row’s relevance in a world where dress codes are becoming increasingly more relaxed. While you might only wear a tie once or twice a month now, the demise of the necessity of formal business tailoring — think Goldman Sachs’ new uniform policy — and the accent of the ‘smart casual’ dress code in the office place is, in turn, opening doorways for a whole new kind of classical menswear. Yuri & Yuri is here to occupy that space.
Amazingly, Yuri is the first South Korean to open up a store on Savile Row and while the majority of Asia has an affinity to the relaxed Italian school of tailoring, Yuri & Yuri is a British brand with a British aesthetic. Taking influences and cues from the likes of Sean Connery as James Bond — “the first few really had class” she adds — and the equally stylish Arnold Palmer, plus the easy-going and transportive wares in The Talented Mr Ripley, Yuri & Yuri are making the silhouettes of the 50s and 60s more modern and relevant than ever. Split into three areas – outerwear, trousers and knitwear – the seasonal collections are designed to be easily mixed and matched together.
As you’d expect from a Savile Row house, the fabrics and construction techniques used are of supreme standards. Thanks to her education, Yuri has drafted the entire range’s patterns, while Will has had influence in the cloth choices and silhouettes. The hero product is, without doubt, the Cadogan jacket, a hybrid between a safari and a wax field jacket. The safari jacket is having a moment right now, so it’s great to see another tweaked iteration of it with a louche belt sans buckle. “It’s our English safari jacket. It’s cut and loosely put together in South Korea — kind of like a basted garment — then finished here in London on Savile Row,” Will says. In a navy and brown wax cotton from Halley Stevensons, which is the world-leading producer of the fabric, it’s utterly robust and durable. “You can smash it, rip it and it will last you forever,” Will adds. For the artisanal lovers out there, there are signs of handwork all over the jacket, but nowhere is this more noticeable than the button holes which have been sewn with a double thread silk twist – which is a touch found normally in bespoke. Lined in cotton, it has a wire within the one piece curved collar so that in unruly weather you can pop it up and it’ll stay in place.
For trousers, Yuri & Yuri offer two styles for spring and two for summer. The spring collection is certainly a bit cleaner and formal. There’s a single pleat trouser in a grey wool/mohair fresco and a flat-fronted trouser in a beige wool/mohair, both of which have side adjusters and have been cut and constructed entirely on Savile Row. “The waistband has proper horse hair canvassing in it so it won’t roll and you also have the hand-stitched bar tacks,” Yuri explains and adds that the fork of the trousers is lined with shirting cloth. What makes these trousers special for a ready-to-wear product, though, is that they’ve had “shape stretched and shrunk into them with an iron and water. It makes such a difference,” Will says. As such, they’re a phenomenal fit. For summer, Yuri has been inspired by the trousers worn in The Talented Mr Ripley, “I just wanted to make a really comfortable trouser,” she explains. Made in South Korea by retired bespoke tailors, they’re a more casual counterpart to the spring offering. Coming in two shades of Russian linen with double pleats, the beige trouser without belt loops or side adjusters, whereas the tobacco brown has side adjusters. Intended to be worn on high the waist, paired with a polo shirt or T-shirt is a clean look that will help you channel your inner Arnold Palmer.
Moving on to knitwear, Yuri’s family has been in the industry for more than 30 years. “When I work with them, I can see that they really enjoy making knitwear. So I wanted to work with them on my brand.” The collection is constructed from a cutting-edge, patented and now defunct Japanese-made yarn called Serie (pronounced se-re-ya). Yuri’s family bought as much as they could get their hands on and they have enough to last them several years. With a silk-like handle and Mother-of-Pearl buttons, the shirts are designed to last you 10 years. “It’s vegan friendly and it’s also antibiotic,” Will adds. Yuri then states that they’re the “first company on Savile Row to offer bespoke knitwear,” which, for those who have an athletic build or are on the larger side of things, is an ideal offering. “They can bring in their favourite jumper and we can use it as a block to go by,” Yuri states. Overall, the four polo shirts have a one-piece collar and a 1950s aesthetic to them. Interchangeable and easy to wear, they’ll pair with all kinds of sports jackets for a more formal take, or, as the solo piece up top.
It’s not often that there’s a new kid on the Savile Row block and speaking with Yuri and Will, one can’t help but marvel at their passion and drive. “In five years, I want to make my name on Savile Row with Will,” says Yuri. Looking at this debut collection available at The Rake, I have no doubt she will succeed.
Budd Shirtmakers.
Recently I had the pleasure of being included in a special project with Budd shirt makers. This was a really fun experience as not only was I able to see my shirts being cut, I also visited the factory with the cutter to watch the shirts being crafted.
The shop is in Piccadilly arcade as it has been since 1800, the factory based in Andover which has been there since 1840 originally owned by the Webster brothers before Budd in 1910, both have very interesting histories. the shop located within Piccadilly Arcade has been there since the company’s inception in 1910 and forms part of the elegant thoroughfare of shops that leads into Jermyn Street. Like all of Mayfair’s traditional arcade boutiques, the shop is tiny, but its size belies the wealth of clothing and haberdashery housed inside. Budd is a veritable Pandora’s box
One of the many things that best defines Budd and its ethos as a company is its staff. We are a tight knit and loyal team with a passion for what we do and a fondness for each other. “We are vehement when it comes to our sourcing and the quality of everything we produce and where possible, train from within. There is little movement amongst our staff, a testament to their loyalty and pride in the company. Our senior staff have a combined service of over 150 years!”
They cut all bespoke and made to measure shirts at the Piccadilly premises. They claim to be the last remaining shirt makers to uphold traditional shirt cutting practices, eschewing computers and shortcuts, to ensure they have a personal handle on every element of what they do.
The cutting team comprises of three wonderful gentlemen, all of whom followed traditional routes into their chosen field and all of whom share a love for what they do and the idiosyncrasies that come with it!
In this instance James was the cutter. Process began by the usual taking of measurements and marking notes on figuration for the pattern. I have very forward shoulders and a hallow back which James noted.
I opted for three shirts. Two in a chambray 120’s with a hidden placket and one piece collar. The other a modernised tunic shirt in a linen with saddle shoulder seam.
The initial fitting for the first shirt was done just a few weeks after, James had made a dummy shirt. The fit was almost perfect the only changes we made was moving top and second button to allow for a slightly forward head posture and the flexibility of being able to wear with a tie or without without running risk of chest hair exposed!
I’d never had someone explain so many useful options during a shirt fitting and asked James what else was possible or advantageous opting for bespoke without stating the obvious.
He began to tell me a few stories based on recent commissions. One gentleman was fed up of constantly wearing through his elbows which James helped by cutting a little extra room and creating more shape within the sleeve.
Another was for a bodybuilder with a large neck and massive delt muscles. Shamed created a type of wedge within his collar pattern allowing him extra space and seamless shape without having to make the collar bigger than it needed to be.
It’s nice to know a tailor has your best interests in mind, James always listens to the customer and pays attention to not just figuration but also purpose so that he can advise on most suitable cloth rather than just diving into extra fine lightweights like many do.
Unlike most production facilities each person makes from start to finish with the exception of pressing and quality control. Here you can see sleeves going in.
As you can see in the picture, one piece collar is abit like sewing a puzzle together by matching up the two pieces of fabric and sewing facings in then turning it back out before then attaching as opposed to sewing straight on like most ready to wear manufacturers do.
Bespoke takes twice as long to make in comparison to ready to wear. Long stitches are sewn on the inside and short on outside to prevent puckering with a clean and sharp finish. The top stitching takes a steady hand and skill. Some of the finer garments like silk can take up to six hours to finish (that’s after being cut)
Also. You can’t join top stitches so if the spool runs out all has to be unpicked and started again. They tend to use a 120’s cotton thread because it’s stronger and thinner for precision.
The manufacturing facility is very family orientated, most of the workforce have been together for many years and are a close knit team. They all have lunch together on a long antique solid oak table surrounded with pictures of team outings and famous patrons.
It’s was interesting to see all garments are produced by each individual person rather than being passed along the production line.
They prefer the old brother sewing machines and for good reason. With the correct maintenance they just keep going and get the job done, most are still being used from the early 1900’s when they were still manufactured here in the UK. It’s interesting similar to looms and finishing machines for fabric production they share many similarities, not only is the quality and capability of machine important but it’s the talented operative behind it and the knowing how to handle cloth and different tensions. Something quite special thinking your shirt is being sewn together on probably the same machine as the likes of Ian Fleming or Edward Fox!
Most of the fabrics are not pre washed which is why a sample shirt is made first, so that the customer can take home and check for shrinkage.
All information is noted on the “slope back” brown pattern for collar. If anything is changed it’s changed on the slope back log. It’s their bible.
Really pleased with the results. If I could change anything it would be opting for another of the Chambray shirts I had made in maybe an off white as feel would be more versatile than the tunic for daily wear, that said I do love the modernised tunic and always find an excuse to wear it.
Yuri & Yuri-Handmade Ready To Wear.
Bringing together a relaxed casual look and hand made detail, Yuri Choi is looking to offer an elegant capsule collection with her brand Yuri & Yuri
Luxury ready to wear remains a problem for many men. Whether it’s the nebulous “smart casual” or a more relaxed, laid back look, this arena of dressing continues to be a tricky one to pull off. With her new range of casual clothing looking to offer one complete look, every piece harmonising with the others, Yuri Choi is looking to offer an elegant one stop solution with her new brand Yuri Yuri.
After a brief career in pharmaceuticals in her home country of South Korea, Yuri followed her creative instincts coming to London to study tailoring for four years at the Savile Row Academy under the guidance of Andrew Ramroop, “everyone has heard of Savile Row so it was the natural place to head for” she remarks. However, having always had an entrepreneurial streak, even before she came to the UK, Yuri knew the aim was to run her own company.
Yuri Yuri is based around what could be described as a capsule collection, “it’s one complete look” Yuri enthuses, “everything is created to harmonise and be worn with the other pieces.” Consisting of five pieces of knitwear, two pairs of trousers and one field jacket, “the clothing is casual ready to wear but handmade with bespoke levels of detail.”
Starting with the outer layer, the field jacket is in flannel, Yuri is experimenting with various waterproof flannels and she is looking at introducing a lighter, linen example in spring 2019. It has a distinct classic safari or bush shirt edge to it though it’s more tailored and shaped across the back. The jacket is given structure by carefully placed darts at the waist and it’s designed to be worn with a belt. “The aim was to make it clean and uncomplicated” Yuri explains, “it has a strong silhouette – visually re-enforced by the one-piece non-separate collar – along with simple detailing.”
Alongside this jacket, Yuri offers five pieces of knitwear. Made by mills in South Korea using Ermenegildo Zegna merino wool, there are round, polo and roll necked jumpers alongside a long-sleeved pique polo shirt and one-piece collared shirt. All garments will be completely seamless, she believes Yuri Yuri will be the first whole garment knitwear label in menswear. Currently for the brands’ launch, the knitwear comes in a more muted winter palette though come spring, Yuri will look at more vibrant colours to work alongside the linen version of her field jacket.
The final component of the Yuri Yuri wardrobe are the trousers. Classic trousers are certainly having a renaissance and Yuri is also a fan of a more tailored and elegant shape. Two trousers are offered, cream in 300g mohair and grey in 300g flannel. Cut to be traditionally high waisted with side adjusters and no belt loops, the cream trousers are cut in the contemporary flat fronted manner though the grey flannel have single forward-facing pleats and, in a nice nod to 1930s menswear, both have turnups.
With menswear such a crowded arena, Yuri has taken an intelligent choice in producing a small but balanced capsule collection. In an era of over purchasing and increasing focus on the sustainability and environmental impact of fashion, investing in a calculated but versatile spread of clothing makes ever more sense. Whilst the extreme capsule wardrobe choices of say, the late Steve Jobs or Barack Obama may not be to every man’s taste, knowing that every trouser, shirt and jumper combination will always work with each other, does mean you can focus and invest on the quality.
Given her bespoke training, Yuri hopes that her brand will evolve into custom made focused firm, though for the moment she wants to make it an initial web-based platform for her to show off her skills. Like many who have trained in professional tailoring, she has no plans for womenswear, “there is a logic and precision to menswear and classic men’s style that female fashion just doesn’t have” she remarks.
With the precise capsule concept informing her selection, Yuri is being very careful with additions to the range. She is pondering a gillet as a future edition due to its flexibility. With prices ranging between £650 for the trousers, £350 for knitwear and £900 for the field jacket, Yuri Yuri is offering a curated and understated way of refreshing and harmonising your wardrobe.
Oscar Udeshi, Bespoke Jeans.
Oscar Udeshi Bespoke
Before the brand’s inception in the late 90s, Oscar, an ex-banker, decided there was more to life than staring at screens and moving numbers around. That Oscar began tailoring wasn’t a huge surprise: Oscar’s grandfather was an engineer, his great grandfather a metallurgist. Being a craftsman was in his DNA.
Before he became a banker, Oscar attended Parsons in Paris and studied the history of costume and fashion illustration. Reading everything he could find about male dress, visiting every costume museum and vintage shops within reach, and watching period films, Oscar became fascinated by clothing’s different styles, constructions, and origins. Every detail became a symbol in a timeless language: the language of dress.
His journey led him to one of the last bespoke shirt makers on Jermyn Street, where he further honed his craft and mastered the language of shirt making. But to understand the art of male dress, you have to learn how to speak ‘suit’. On that basis, he found a true bespoke cutter and compared different cutting methods to create garments of the highest quality for his customers.
Oscar’s house style is modelled after English styles, with an emphasis on Swiss precision, Swiss functionality, and Italian comfort. Swiss precision means bespoke garments can be delivered to clients all over the globe without the need for fittings or alterations. (With the exception of full bespoke) Swiss functionality ensures every part of a garment serves a purpose, and Oscar even makes a few military-inspired pieces with action pleats, closing collars, and hidden pockets.
To provide Italian comfort, coats come with the lightest or no shoulder pads, are made of light and soft canvases, eschews domette, and are sewn with a gentle and accurate hand. Some of Oscar’s clients have compared their bespoke jackets to a pyjama—they are so soft, light, and unrestrictive of movement that it’s easy to forget that you’re wearing it.
Oscar kindly offered to make me a pair of made-to-measure jeans. I’ve owned many off-the-peg jeans, but it never crossed my mind to get them custom made, which is surprising since finding the right pair can often be a struggle. When buying a pair of jeans, I pay attention to three main features: shape, colour, and fit. Fit has always been the biggest issue for me, and getting constant alterations means compromising on something.
Technically speaking, the jeans Oscar offered were to me are bespoke, as he drafted them for me using an individual pattern.This gave me the power to choose exactly the features I wanted: pocket depth, shape, waistband loops, thread colour, waist inlays, rivets, no waist inlays and so on. I had no idea so many options were available.
I opted for Japanese denim for its firmness and deep navy colour, deeper pockets twice-stitched for reinforcement, and a gusset attached to back of waistband for additional durability. Oscar took note of my slightly forward hips by adjusting the waistband shape and picked up the seat slightly into the waistband. I’ve always loved Japanese denim jeans but never had worn a pair so robust and comfortable. I imagine you could wear them on a long-haul flight and still feel at ease.
Oscar told me he developed his jean concept using principles from bespoke, ship jeans, and khakis. In his mind, a jean shouldn’t be too precious. It is a work garment, and delicate hand stitching does not add to the robustness or idea of a jean. Bespoke and off-the-rack jeans are made on the same line, and there is no differentiation in the quality. The only difference is the client’s name is on the bespoke jean. On the inside of Oscar’s jeans, the raw edges of the fly are covered, like a Savile row trouser, for comfort and durability. He also uses a special reinforced cotton pocket and a softer, striped inside waistband as opposed to the traditional folded denim edge. This also helps keep a shirt tucked in.
The inside is as elegant as it needs to be, and his construction focuses on comfort, and while this requires more time, his clients seem to appreciate and see value in that. It is not an expensive jean because someone puts a fancy label in it. It’s because it fits comfortably, is functional, and feels weightless.
Whilst Oscar is a tailor who embraces the past without living in it, he’s always looking for new ways to improve both his product and service. Leaving his shop has allowed for more investment in product development. He still has regular trunk shows here in London but also has an online shop. I highly recommend you make an appointment directly—his diary fills up quickly! I was lucky to meet him when he was in town and i’m his cloth supplier!. Looking forward to trying some of his ready-to-wear garments soon, which will hopefully be followed by another review.
Mountbatten Weekend bag, by Whitehouse-Cox
Whitehouse Cox has handmade luxury leather goods in England since 1875. Championing clean and refined design sensibilities. I decided on the Mountbatten Holdall for its stylish understated design, durability and size.
A little history..
At its inception, Whitehouse Cox was a small family business focused on manufacturing equestrian equipment. Stirrups, bits and buckles were all produced in the company’s foundry. It was Whitehouse Cox’s ability to produce such products to a truly exacting standard that led the British army to enlist the brand to craft equestrian equipment for both the first and second world wars.
Following the wars and the redundancy of cavalry within the military, Whitehouse Cox began producing leather goods for commercial brands.
Decades of crafting leather goods for other brands led to therelative anonymity of Whitehouse Cox within Britain. In the face of many brands moving manufacturing abroad, Whitehouse Cox noticed the need for truly handmade in England luxury leather goods and elected to focus on its in-house collections.
100% Handmade In England
This bucks the trend of the many ‘British’ brands which have moved operations abroad. Indeed, Whitehouse Cox productsare not partially British made, they are one hundred percent handmade in England, with the company sourcing leather from British producers wherever possible.
It is Whitehouse Cox’s philosophy that the focus on British-made products produces a superior final item and this exemplary quality will never be sacrificed for higher profit margins.
Superior Quality
The sheer quality of a Whitehouse Cox product is evident in the brand’s current bridle and saddle leather collections.Whitehouse Cox products boast an average lifespan of nine to twelve years with daily use. During that time, the leather takes on a unique patina with use, leading to a truly individual accessory you can cherish as your own.
Design Philosophy
The overriding design principle behind a Whitehouse Cox item is clean and refined. The company logo is discretely placed on the interior of items, leaving the beautiful leather to speak for itself on the exterior. In a modern world of overt branding, we believe this is a refreshing take on accessories and something that is often noted by the brand’s clientele.
Michael Palin & Whitehouse Cox
The meticulous attention to detail and quality of Whitehouse Cox means the brand is regaining traction within Britain, with a number of discerning individuals keen to utilise the superior products. Notable among them is Michael Palin, who uses the Whitehouse Cox Explorer Bag on his travels and has a bespoke version created to meet his personal needs during his many odysseys.
The quality, provenance and heritage of each Whitehouse Cox collection ensures many notable individuals elect to use the brand’s items.
Discover Whitehouse Cox’s range at www.whitehouse-cox.co.uk.
Coat: Barbour Bedale
Blazer: Juan Carlos in Staneven’s ”Explorer” cloth
Shoes: Church’s vintage penny loafer
Knit: Yuri & Yuri
Scarf: Escorial by Joshua Ellis
Kirk Originals
The first pair of frames were made by the Kirk family on a sewing machine which was turned into a cutter. However, its nostalgic retro style which exudes quality and timeless British style caught on to the public, and the brand spread out to France and Italy. Famous figures such as the Smiths, Mick Jagger, and Samuel L. Jackson are a few iconic customers.
At some point in history, the retro style died out – and not many people were seen anymore wearing thick-framed sunglasses. Now, however, there has been a resurgence in classic style even with a modern spin. It’s a promising sign people are becoming more aware and enthused by the simple facts trends can come and go, but timeless stylish products made well will last and wear well a lifetime.
Vintage Appeal
In an era where everything seems to be hectic and tiring, Kirk Originals manage to bring out the playful, classic vibe that makes us relax our muscles – or at least, our eyesight. Acetate is not only durable if treated right – but it’s also trendy. It evokes charm and attitude, looking cool and modern while hanging onto that polished, retro style.
It is certainly a design that is special in every way possible. Every frame model can be combined with pretty much anything. You can wear them with a suit – or you can wear them casually. The beauty of these sunglasses is that they can be mixed with pretty much anything.
The Process
Kirk Originals sunglasses are handcrafted in England, France, and Italy – but with England still remaining the center point. The Made in England collection, which costs around $570 (£430) per piece has gone through a very meticulous handcrafting process. Each pair of glasses took around 72 hours to be made by the artisans of the brand – and obviously, all of them are handmade.
This makes every pair unique – a luxury that everyone should invest inif you are serious about eyewear. Granted, they are much more expensive that most will be used to spending – as it is with many brand products – my thoughts on this are you are likely to own a product that will last a lifetime. Compared to other sunglasses, these won’t break with the first pull, and they will offer you decent eyesight protection from the sun’s harmful rays in more ways than one.
Aside from being incredibly stylish, the Kirk Originals sunglasses are also efficient at blocking out harmful UV rays. They don’t just give you shade; they block the rays from coming in completely. After trying a variety of different models on, my favourites were from the Made in England collection. Like a beautiful bespoke suit they seem to hover and sit comfortably. I highly encourage you to try a pair for yourself and at least learn more about this iconic brand.
A Very English Warp & Weft
The in-house shop window to some of the UK’s most illustrious weavers, Standeven is seeing the continuing surge in popularity of English cloth – the world has woken up to the fact it can’t be beaten
English cloth remains sought after around the world. The country’s expertise in cloth weaving and finishing goes back centuries and many of the industry’s most esteemed names can trace their lineage back to the late 18th or early 19th centuries. Among them is Standeven Fabrics; its founder John W Standeven began his career in 1819 before founding his own company in 1885. Today, the firm is part of Luxury Fabrics Ltd sitting alongside other renowned cloth weavers such as John Foster, William Halstead, and Kynoch. No longer an active stand-alone weaver, Standeven was re-launched in 2014 as the in-group marketing agent dealing specifically with cut length cloth for tailors; as Marcia Jennings, the firm’s managing director puts it, “we are the shop front, the merchant to our mills to enable them to show off their range and expertise.”
Behind Luxury Fabrics Ltd in turn lie the family owned SIL Holdings and the group’s finishers, Roberts Dyers & Finishers, and combing specialists such as George Ackroyd and the Cashmere Combing Company. Joshua Ellis cashmere is also part of this larger group as a standalone limited firm – it also weaves Escorial cloth on behalf of the New Zealand luxury wool brand. Among Luxury Fabrics Ltd’s brands, John Foster has a history dating back to 1819 being well-known in Japan for its worsted suiting and William Halstead – still weaving in their original mill buildings – is esteemed as one of the world’s premier mohair weavers. Part of the larger SIL Holdings stable is Kynoch; based in the Scottish borders and with a history going back as far as 1788, the house design and produce a range of tweed, two-colour twist suitings and country flannel, any of which Standeven is able to offer giving a comprehensive and multi-faceted selection of small run cloths.
Standeven also acts as the sole distributor and partner for suiting made from Escorial wool. A rare wool, it comes from sheep with a blood line dating back to the 15th century when they were the property of the Spanish Royal family. Today, a very small number of farms in New Zealand and Australia breed and shear these remarkable animals. The wool is highly resilient; the fibre itself is like a curled spring, the cloud like wool is so fine it cannot be given a super number (the indicator of the wool’s fineness in combination with the overall thread count per inch) as the threads are elliptical rather than oval and the micron cannot be accurately measured.
The allure of cloth is tactile, it is in the feel, weight and sensation. Chatting with Matthew Simpson, the managing director of William Halstead, over the past 15 years the market for English cloth has continued to grow strongly, “people are seeing the intrinsic quality of our cloth.” British cloth tends to be constructed in a more robust manner than other European mills, there is an emphasis in two-fold yarns in the warp and weft that gives it its unique body. This body is what brings many of the continent’s luxury clothing brands to these shores. Allied to this body, English expertise in finishing, “can allow the same piece of cloth to be finished in two completely different manners,” Matthew comments.
Given Standeven’s focus on cut lengths for tailors, its market is somewhat more tightly focused than many of Luxury Fabrics Ltd and SIL Holdings weavers. Large orders are dealt with by the individual brand, be that for example John Foster, Kynoch or William Halstead, so it is unsurprising to hear Matthew remark that at bulk order level, “we are very export led.” There are increasing and very welcome signs that Chinese firms are beginning to appreciate the quality of English cloth as opposed to the Italian equivalent, this is closely connected with the increasing interest by the middle classes in China in “stealth wealth” brands and understated quality which Britain has historically excelled at. The main drivers of this success are, “the level of product, our history and the service we can give,” remarks Matthew. Standeven’s reach is to those western countries with a history of bespoke tailoring, though given their adoration of all things English and their love of precision, the new up and coming tailors in the Far East will doubtless prove to be an eager and highly demanding market in the future.
With this demanding clientele, it is critical for all parts of Luxury Fabrics Ltd and SIL Holdings to work seamlessly together; from the initial swatch that Standeven takes into a client through to a larger sample or repeat house order that needs to be rapidly fulfilled, there is the need for consistency and continuity in what is put before a client – and their customers in turn. This goes hand in hand with the requirement to know the client, nurture a long-term relationship with them and understand what cloths work and why which Standeven’s representatives spend much time and care in.
Will Field, London Sales Manager
Supplying to tailors enables Standeven to keep a careful eye on cloth and style trends, William Field, the house’s London sales representative sees sharper, bolder colours becoming ever more acceptable and popular, “it’s a form of escapism but also shows that men are starting to become more confident and individual in their choices – especially when they are making the substantial investment into bespoke they want exactly what they deem best expresses their personality.” After many years of being cast aside as the preserve of 1980s stockbrokers, Will also sees pinstripe and chalkstripe making a quiet comeback; given these patterns can range from the very understated to cheerfully obnoxious, as ever more informed bespoke and made to measure customers seek just the right cloth, it is good to hear this classic English suiting is regaining fans.
At the other end of the cloth process, being taken round Stanley Mills, the Bradford weavers who make for the various Luxury Fabric Ltd’s brands, the advantages of having SIL Holdings behind them is clear, for example there has been a formalised apprenticeship scheme across the group for a decade. Six staff are currently going through the three-year programme on both the design and production sides of the group, as Marcia stresses, “there is the critical requirement to keep these skills alive at all stages of the cloth process and maintain our ability to supply whatever our clients ask of us.”
Standeven offers a shop window to peruse an incredible selection of cloth whichever part of the parent group you eventually opt for, be it a John Foster worsted or Kynoch tweed. With vertically integrated supply lines behind it as Marcia says, “it’s all about supplying the customer and the pride in seeing the ultimate garment look its very best.”
Written by Rupert Watkins and shot by Andy Barnham.
Howard Bibby, Sales Manager
